New York Times_'Peking to Paris' (June 1)

01.06.2008

“That was the best day’s rallying I have ever seen ... simply fantastic.” That’s the verdict on today from Dutchman Berend van den Dool, who is navigating Bert Kersten in a 1927 Bentley Speed Six. Estonia has really impressed.

It’s a sentiment that has been expressed by others in the bar this evening... a wonderful day, real rallying, best since Peking. For the Dutch, who have been around just a bit, it goes even further than that. “Can’t recall a day that was organised any better, roads that were so stunning, scenery that’s an added bonus ... with really exciting competition.”

It was such a contrast to yesterday, when everyone was saying: “What a shit day – the Russians certainly gave us a send-off that was something to remember ... police harassment and a border control none of us will forget.”

We ran out of Tallin to a remarkable circuit used for rallycross. Forget Lydden Hill and the likes, it was as long, if not longer, than Brands Hatch, with dips and crests, and a lake in the middle with cars running alongside the water. The surface of the tracks is a powdery, dusty gravel, and those who can drive on loose surfaces revelled in all this, sliding round the hairpins, with a time trial timed to the second. It was remarkably smooth, and slickly run by the motor club which has put on a superb welcome for all of us who have never been to Estonia before.

This was just the opener to the day. After this we had more of their forest sections – we ran past remote log-cabins, even small villages, where everything was shut down, roads properly closed for us, and where all the locals turned up to sit on tractors and doorsteps and cheer us on our way. Tightly marshalled, every gate and footpath was well manned. Just as well, because when Nigel Challis in his Land Rover pulled over to give room to the flying Xavier de Marmol and Catherine Janssens in their Chevy (with the top rolled down as it was such a bright warm day) he beached it. The only four-wheel-drive car in the whole event had two wheels down a soft dirt bank, with the driver’s door resting against a birch tree, and no way up. But aid from on-the-spot help is just a mobile phone call away.

Estonia certainly knows how to put on a good rally. The help and reception we have received here have been simply wonderful. It’s changed the results. Yesterday’s tests had to be cancelled because so many were stuck at the border. Move on. Nobody is grumbling now. The atmosphere and the camaraderie are terrific ... it’s another day. There’s a warm afterglow as a result of today’s organisation, which has seen literally hundreds of marshals all in the right place at the right time.

The gap between the Chevy Coupés at the head of the Vintageant category has closed to seven minutes. Xavier was on a charge but the David Williams car was banging and popping and sounding less healthy. In the Classics division, the Merc Fintail and Jaguar MkII are having a lot of fun. The two Astons are revelling in the rallycross circuit, with long lurid slides on opposite lock, the engines sounding glorious as they punch their way out of the corners. The Germans in the Alvis have slipped down the leader board in the Vintageant category, with Paul Merryweather dropping from 3rd to 4th, overhauled by a flying Paul Carter despite him messing up on the circuit (stopping after the first lap to ask the marshals if this is the start of the next lap, while seconds tick away). Time trials on circuits with ‘splits’ and route changes clearly caught out a few, suggesting that a circuit test is more than just a driver’s benefit. Navigators who can call the shots have contributed to the results today.

Estonia was a day full of surprises. In 17th position overall is one of the more unlikely cars ... the Rolls Royce ‘Doctor’s Coupé’ of Mark and Sandra de Ferranti. They have an on-board cooking device, a bracket welded close to the engine that can heat up a tin of soup, beans, or Heinz Ravioli, and Sandra knows the cooking time. A few tins and some aluminium foil are felt to be as essential as a wheel-brace and jack. They give the impression they are not interested in results, and like to tour from the comfort of their leather armchairs – but results tell a different story. .....

Full text: http://www.nytimes.com/2008/06/01/books/chapters/chapter-autos-peking.html?scp=4&sq=Estonia&st=nyt